Moving on again

Hi everyone,
I know I´m late....again but things have been pretty busy here! For those of you who don´t already know I´m down near Pamplona for the third summer in a row visiting my favourite Spanish family! Since it´s the hight of summer we´ve been fairly run off our feet so I´ve only just had time to write.

Last week was actually fairly easy in terms of work for a change. After waking up to find a message saying I could definitely head to Pamplona at the weekend I waited around until Isa´s sister got her out of bed early then set about helping her get sorted to go out. Her friends who had visited at the weekend wanted her to come over so she was out of the house by just after 10.30am so I spent my morning reading, watching some old episodes of House MD on my computer and thinking up some new knitting ideas for when I got home.
In the afternoon Marie appeared home reasonably early and we went off to find the new shoes I so desperately needed. We had to take Isa along which meant I knew we´d never manage to get the shoes sorted - and I was right - but it was a reasonable trip out at least. In the end I couldn´t find what I needed and settled for buying the (to me) slightly expensive shoes I´d seen after class the following day.

Wednesday Isa didn´t want to get up out of bed since she wanted to watch her cartoons and when I finally decided enough was enough she sulked and wouldn´t talk to me for over an hour leaving me to sit around and colour in the ´difficult´ pictures she wasn´t going to do. By that point the grandparents had arrived and it was almost lunch time so I got myself some food, checked my Spanish homework and headed out around 3.30pm to go to class. It wasn´t too bad for my final lesson. My normal teacher was still on holiday but the new one was talking a bit slower and I wasn´t already in a grump which helped. We got through a fair amount of work and after getting my shoes and going for a final wander through my favourite part of Bilbao I caught the metro back to the house.

guggenheim

As promised by Marie we went to the Guggenheim museum after we´d both finished work on Thursday. Isa had been at a friend´s again so I´d had a fairly easy day and after getting a quick bite to eat we set off. We had Isa with us which I wasn´t entirely sure about but she seemed fairly excited to go and see the ´flower puppy´ outside the entrance so off we went.

There was a great video exhibit by Kimsooja &Shahzia Sikander which had some really impressive imagery and the music was like a mix of sounds I´d heard in both India and Peru. We only got to stay for 10 minutes cause someone got bored but I´m definitely going to check them out online soon! There was an impressive steal instalment which took up half the building with maze like structures but we got in trouble cause Isa decided out run back out of one of the mazes and if she´d gone off in a different direction we might not have seen where she´d gone. 

The two main art exhibits were by Jeff Koons and Jean-Michel Basquait. I think the first appealed more to Isa with his metal ballon animals and refashioned old toys but I think I preferred the Basquait exhibit with his graffiti art and messages about colonialism, racisms, class struggles and things like that - it was also pretty cool to see the collection he did alongside Andy Warhol - someone I remember studying in school!

Unfortunately Isa thought it would be fun to break free from her mum and touch an exhibition piece which almost got us chucked out and then spent the last half hour deliberately messing around, making too much noise knowing she had to be quiet and generally trying to make us leave.

Friday was a pretty busy day. The grandparents showed up for a bit in the morning, and everyone was sitting with Isa watching TV so I used that time to get my back packed and ready to go. The parents arrived in the afternoon but no one seemed interested in getting their own things packed until the evening after dinner. They were off to China early in the morning so they had to get themselves organised too. We had a final family meal and after I was given the money back that I´d paid for my new shoes - the family wanted them to be a present from them which was really sweet!

on the road again

On saturday morning the housekeeper came and took me to the bus station since she´d offered the day before. I got the bus from Bilbao to Pamplona which was a nice trip although there seemed to be a lot of holiday traffic on the road. I grabbed a coffee and a pintxo in the bus station then caught the next bus down to Olite - the closest I could get to San Martin de Unx on the bus as far as I knew. 

Knowing it was lunch time and it would be really busy I decided I would just start walking and hitch to my friends hostel/restaurant instead of waiting to see if they could come and collect me. A nice couple who were here on holiday picked me up in no time and dropped me right at the door.

The afternoon was spent doing little jobs around the hostel and settling back into life in San Martin. 

Sunday was the busiest I´ve ever seen it here with every table full of families and groups wanting lunch. We spent most of the late afternoon recovering from such a busy session and chatted about the other people who´d come to stay, how their English course summer camp had gone and how our families were getting on before having an early night. 

gorgeous new dog

Yesterday I spent the morning out shopping with Pedro and his grandson which was an interesting experience - had to laugh at the fact he decided he wanted ice cream near the start of the trip and was still asking for it two hours later! We had quite a few people for lunch and there was less of us working in the kitchen but between me and Linda I think we actually worked through the orders and the service faster than we had the day before with more people! I guess it was just easier with less people getting under each others feet. 

This morning I helped clean the pool and prep some things for dinner then I set about writing this. We´ve got a couple of hours until people start coming for lunch but we have rooms to make up so I´m off to help with the laundry. 

I should be in Barcelona by the time I write my next piece but I don´t know how easy it will be for me to post off my tablet (now it´s getting old and slow) when I don´t have a computer or laptop to borrow!

Chat to you all again soon either way,

Ciao!

Back to square one

Hi everyone,
Shock, horror - I`m actually on time for the second week in a row!
Now as some of you already know I`m almost at the end of my trip - I`m now back in Cusco where my South American adventure first began and I`m waiting for my flight home in a couple of days. But before I go here`s a round up of the last week!

So after my last post I went out exploring with my latest travel buddie - an American guy on a short break from offshore work. We headed out to check out the market and had a traditional Peruvian breakfast - chinese rice for me and some sort of chicken rice dish for him - no joke, that`s a normal breakfast here and Chinese food is especially popular.

After pottering around at the hostel a bit longer and getting a quick nap to make up for the night bus we decided to walk up to a viewpoint across town we`d heard about. It took a while to find the path up to it but eventually we started our climb - which actually wasn`t too bad until the last stretch. At this point we`d also inadvertantly picked up a guide, a rather drunk old guy who insisted on showing us the way. We eventually got rid of him and made it up to the top of the hill with  a rather large white cross on top. There were some pretty awesome views from there right across the city but more amazingingly - the Cordillera Blanca - one of the biggest mountain ranges in the world. It was strange to think that just the day before we`d been in warm sunny Lima, with palm trees and surf beaches, and we were now looking across to beautiful snow capped mountains.
We hung out there a little while but very concious of the fact the clouds were coming down we headed off the hill and found a much nicer route down - a real road in fact...shame we hadn`t noticed it a few meters away on our way up the hill! We arrived back in the city centre just as the rain came on and ended up having to duck into a little local resturant for food and to wait out the worst of the rain. The rest of the evening - once we got back to the hostel was spent trying to stay warm and dry. We stayed in and watched a movie before calling it a night.

View from the viewpoint (mirador)

The following day we didn´t get up to a whole lot really, wandered around looking for somewhere to book a trip up onto the glacier, picked up some vegetables from the market and explored the town itself a little bit. Otherwise it was a pretty quiet day. The most interesting part of the day was probably trying to cook dinner that night. The hostel only had two rings on a gas stove or a BBQ which had been sitting in the rain. Eventually we succeeded in making our pasta but we decided not to try cooking there again - too much hassle and the`kitchen´ was outside and therefore pretty cold in the evening.

First thing next morning Josh set out to try and sort out something for us to do that day. It turned out we couldn`t get to the glacier due to protests nearby and we couldn`t go on an earlier tour since we had a friend from Lima expected to arrive on the bus at some point that morning.
He returned around 8.40am with our friend in tow since he`d found her at the bus station. He`d managed to set up a trip up onto the Cordillera Negra instead with a `guide`to leave at 10am so we grabbed some breakfast then waited for him to appear.
Now this guy wasn`t what you would expect as a guide - he smelled kinda bad, his clothes and shoes didn`t fit and he bought a bottle of beer to drink on the way but he did the job. We arrived to the bottom of the hill and started our 3 hour hike. It was pretty difficult being at such high altitude - around 4500m but the views from the top were spectacular.
Back at the bottom and after a quick bus back to the town Lena and I grabbed some tea while Josh got rid of the guide. We also went to try and find something to do together the following day since Josh was headed back to Lima but we had more issues with the guides and decided to try again later in the afternoon.
Eventually we managed to book a trip up to Laguna 69 for ourselves and two other girls from our hostel Elma and Nana.

hiking in the Cordillera Negra!

At 5am the following morning we were up and ready to go. Our bus collected us around 5.20am and set off for the national park. After a short breakfast stop we arrived to the start of our hike at around 8.30am and set off up the hill. Although the first big section was pretty flat the altitude made it feel like we were already heading straight up. It was a weird feeling, being out of breathe walking across the flat valley floor but it was so much worse once we started heading up! It took around 3 and a half hours to make the 7km hike up to he lake but it was worth it! We saw some spectacular views across to Peru´s biggest mountain and around the lake itself.
Although it snowed on and off on the way there it cleared in time for me and a couple of other stragglers to make it to the lake. We didn`t hang around long due to the weather turning again and instead headed back down the mountain - a considerably easier walk heading down!
We made it back to the hostel around 5 and after sorting out a few admin things such as my bus the following day we got some food and settled for an early night.

A large lake on our way to Laguna 69

On thursday morning I got a bus back to Lima. It left around 9.30am and was actually a fairly pleasant bus trip although the lack of air conditioning was a bit of an issue - a silly thing to complain about in South America I know but it was hot! We arrived in Lima around 5pm bus because of traffic it took me until almost 7pm to get backthe the Dragonfly hostel!
After a much needed shower, some food from the hostels BBQ and a beer I was feeling much better. The lads who work there were planning to go to a local indie-rock gig and invited me along. It ended up just being two of us going but the gig was really good. The bar felt more like a converted old house with the band area down in the basement. The music was great and it was nice to go somewhere a bit more local since the area the hostel is in is very much a touristy area!
After the gig we ended up back at the hostel for a couple more drinks and ended up staying up until somewhere round 6am hanging out and talking up on the roof. What a bad influence those lads are (joking - in case any of them read these haha).

Friday morning was very quiet and I spent most of it working through a few big mugs of coffee. Around lunch time I was off again and heading for my next bus - all the way to Cusco this time!
The bus journey took 22 hours although thankfully I`d thought ahead and booked one of the fancy seat in the downstairs part of the bus - the seats reclined to 160', each seat had it`s own private TV screen and headphones and for once there was plenty of leg room. I was also pretty lucky with the person sitting next to me - a nice trainee accountant from Ireland who didn`t snore and was decent to chat to.

At Laguna 69!

I arrived in Cusco around midday yesterday and after settling back into Estrellita - my go to Cusco hostel - I headed out to the Meeting Place - an American run cafe with great burgers, milkshakes and amazing waffles!!
Surprisingly while I was sat there my frined Rachel walked in! She`s an intern with the school for field studies and was supposed to be heading back to Villa Carmen except the road was blocked so she was back in Cusco for the day with her parents!
I spent the rest of the afternoon wandering around with them and swapping news from the last month before heading back to my hostel.
There I found a couple who were offering up there extra rice pudding so I got a nice filling meal there and some tea before heading to bed in the otherwise empty dorm room!

Well I´d best get on - I haven´t really done anything else today and it`s half way through the afternoon!
I think I´m going to write one more post once I get home although it might be a couple of days late. But speak to you all again soon!!
Ciao

Machu Picchu!!

Hi everyone,
a day late again I know but I only got back from Machu Picchu last night!!

So this whole week has been pretty jam packed and I don´t have that much time online but I´ll do my best!
After I finished writing my last blog post we all went up to Saqsaywaman - an archaeological site just above the city of Cusco. It was pretty impressive seeing the size of the structures and had an amazing view over the city. We stayed up there until it started getting dark, admiring the view before heading back to the city for Indian food in this great place Jimena and I found last time I was in Cusco.

Saqsaywaman - funny name I know

The following day we had some errands to run first like buying our ticket for MP and organising Heather´s friends Haley and Charlie´s flights, but after that we took a bus out to the Sacred Valley. After a quick bit of food and a look around the market we got a lift up to the top of the valley and from there we went exploring.
The ruins at Pisac were again really impressive. It was great cause we got to walk all the way along the ridge looking at dozen of ruins along the way, and bonus, we were practically the only people there!
After about a 10km walk we arrived back in the village of Pisac where we started and got a quick snack before catching a bus back to Cusco.
We found a nice little pizza place and decided to stay out a while after, resulting in a trip to one of the local nightclubs where we got in for free and met our friend Carlos from Villa Carmen.

Adventuring in Pisac

Wednesday morning got off to a bit of a slow start after the late night and even once we were up and about it took us forever to find breakfast - my favourite place was closed for New Year and it took us an extra 20 minutes wandering about to find anything else. After all that effort we decided to head back to the hostel and hang out there for a while, though we dropped Heather off at the internet cafe en route.
After a couple of hours there Haley and Charlie decided to head to Qorikancha - an interesting Inkan temple/Spanish Convent - and Heather showed up with Blair just in time to join them. I stayed behind having already visited but hung out with some new friends in the hostel instead.
That lead to me missing out on meeting the group for dinner because more and more hostel people appeared and suddenly it was party central. There were quite a few people staying for the New Year including a crowd of cyclists and a couple of guys with motorbikes and we had an awesome time hanging out. There was a great couple from Devon who I loved talking to and I´m kind of sad I didn´t get their contact details before they left.
Anyway, we took a break to go get Chinese food and all stayed up for the fireworks at midnight. At that point folk started splitting off to go to bed but a small group of us decided to walk up to the house of one of the bikers who actually lives in Cusco. It was an awful walk but we had a great time with the guy and I enjoyed hanging out with the 5 dogs he had there too!
At some point we headed back down to the plaza but it was really expensive to get in anywhere so we eventually decided to call it a night.

New Year´s day, as expected got off to a pretty slow start, we´d only really finished breakfast at the time we were supposed to check out. We also had another food fiasco, when the ´reasonable´looking place we found took our order once, waited almost an hour, double checked the order, then still hadn´t served us almost 45 minutes after that. For the first time for all of us we walked out without getting our food. However shortly after we found a really nice place with short serving time, nice atmosphere, and great food!
About two minutes after walking out of the restaurant we got caught in an awful hail storm, which left rivers running through the streets and all our shoes! We gave up our idea of a walk and tried to find coffee but had no luck there either and ended up back at the hostel cold and empty handed.
After sitting around there for a while we decided to finalise our Machu Picchu plans. Heather, Blair and I decided we would travel by buses and walking, while Haley and Charlie decided to get the train the following morning for Charlie´s birthday.
At 8pm our group headed for the bus. which left around 9pm and arrived in Santa Maria around 2am. From there we got a taxi to Santa Teresa arriving around 3am. Since we didn´t want to hike the rail line in the dark we found a clean spot in the Plaza and settled down for a couple of hours rest.

Walking in to Aguas Calientes

In the morning it was up first thing (since I doubt we would have been allowed to sleep in the plaza much later) and we got a collectivo to the Hydroelectric station. From there it was a two hour walk along the train tracks to Aguas Calientes. It was a pretty nice walk and we made good time. We also found a pretty reasonable hostel when we got to the town which had been a bit of a concern.
We waited for Haley and Charlie to arrive before getting food, exploring and running a few errands - like getting snacks for the big day.
By the time we´d finished getting organised it was time for food again, which we followed up with a couple of drinks in this really cool reggae bar we found. Unfortunately the guy had never even heard of Bunny and the Wailers but the place had a great vibe and we got to chill out and play a couple of games of pool before bed.

At the Sun Gate

The big day. We didn´t get up as early as planned but it didn´t really matter. After coffee we caught the bus up to the entrance and without wasting too much time we hiked straight up to the Sun Gate. What an amazing view! I remember very distinctly as a little kid, I was 9 years old and at a regular Girls Brigade night, we were asked what our big dream was for when we grew up, I instantly said travel and when prompted answered that I most wanted to go to Peru, especially to see Machu Picchu. It was a very surreal, and quite an emotional experience the 11 years later, I was finally there.
We spent a good half hour just sitting looking out at the view before walking back down to do the real exploring. It´s impossible to really describe how much of an amazing place it is, the location, sheer size and magnificence of it all. Instead you´ll just have to check out the pictures and try to imagine for yourself. We spent some time wandering around the site until the rain and hunger finally won out.
Seeing the lines to get a bus back down we decided to chance it and walk back down the mountain instead. It was only about 2km using the steps or 6km on the road but it was pretty steep either way.
Back in Aguas we half crawled our way into the first food place we found - a pizza place with an offer of cheap food and free drink. After consuming 3 family sized pizzas between the 5 of us we plodded back up to our hostel, were I had to quickly gather my things.
Everyone else was staying an extra night but I had to come back to Cusco early as a have a bus to catch down to Lake Titicaca tonight.I decided to treat myself and catch the train which was pretty cool. I was seated next to this 12 year old Columbian kid who´s family were sitting opposite. As soon as they realised I spoke English they told their son to practice his English with me. I didn´t mind though, I learnt a lot about Columbia on that train, and for 12 years old he knew a surprising amount about a number of topics - including Columbian political history!
By the time we all arrived back in Cusco I was told to come and visit them when I make it to Columbia in the future and I was actually gifted a little something for spending my time talking to the kid - that part was a bit weird to be honest but I wasn´t going to refuse.

Machu Picchu!

Anyway, I got back to the hostel last night and have spent most of the day catching up on errands, chilling out and drinking to drink enough tea to drown the cough I can´t seem to get rid of.
Now though I´d better go, must get some food and get everything charged before Lake Titicaca tomorrow!!!

ciao

Festival Fun

Hi everyone,
A bit late once again I know but I just managed to get the next textbooks for my course and got a little distracted with that yesterday!

So in case any of you wondered about last weeks festival it was pretty cool, there was a lot of traditional dances all done in really elaborate costumes, plenty of music and, as you would expect at any festival, the alcohol was certainly flowing. Although I only stuck around for a little while it was really cool to see plus it gave us all an opportunity to snack on some great  Picarones (kind of like sweet potato doughnuts)!

Local dancing

On Tuesday our numbers were once again whittled down when Jimena, Rachel and Dan left. Jimena is coming back to continue her research in January but the others are either going back home or getting back on the road. So that brings our number (minus admin/management/'workers') down to 3. There is a new volunteer supposed to be showing up today but it's so quite around here now!

Rachel, Ricardo and Heather enjoying the festival

Unfortunately there's still very little to do around here. We were given a list of jobs we could work on but a lot of the things listed are just filler jobs which don't really have us jumping with excitment.

One thing we did do this week was go out to help clear a new trail on the other side of the river. We got the boat across early in the morning and a couple of us were quite looking forward to the expected slow pace that comes with hacking routes through the rainforest. However the route was actually pretty heavy going and the machete-ers weren't exactly hanging around. Although I thought it would be fine my knee started to protest pretty early on and, for once, i decided to do the sensible thing and turn back. This did leave me with the predicament of being stuck back on the river bank until they returned - 4 hours later - with no book/journal/other interesting thing to do but eventually, after gaining a good few dozen bug bites plus a burnt face, and losing an earring and


my water bottle (which decided to disappear down the river) the rest of the team finally showed up.

The little friend I made down by the river - got within 3 feet of me

The next mission was to actually get back over the river. The boat wasn't showing up and after about an hour and a half it was decided that we would have to use a different, less powerful boat, which meant getting further upriver so it could reach us and get back without struggling to get back upstream. So after a good half an hour of fast, difficult, trail-less scrambling we finally made it to where the boat could get us and we managed to get back to VC. Unfortunately my knee's still not great so I've been having to take it easy this last few days.

For the rest of my time in VC I'm going to be totally taking over with collecting and processing the water samples needed for the larvae project which is kinda cool, especially using a couple of little chemistry techniques I haven't used since high school. It's going well so far although it's only a couple of times a week.

In other news I got to work planning the rest of my time in Peru since I'll be leaving VC in under 20 days and leaving Peru in just over 40. So far I'm making sure to visit quite a few important sites between Cusco and Lima though I have a few days extra to either plan out or leave free to see what happens. I'm kind of disappointed as I was hoping to make the trip with a friend on his motorbike but with my knee being a cause for concern it wouldn't be a good idea - but maybe next time!

Well that's all I have for you guys this time, probably should get working on some of these water samples now!

Ciao